If you’re looking for a painting company, chances are you’ll have a lot of questions to ask. At SRAP our entire business wants you to be comfortable asking any question that may arise. That’s why we put together some of our most commonly asked questions for you!
Customer Service. Our success has been based on delivering high quality painting, remedial and access services with exceptional customer service. We stand behind our work and will work with you to make sure you are happy with the experience and the finished product.
At SRAP, we are often seen as your “One Stop solution”. With our network of numerous qualified and experienced trades, we often can do a lot more for the client that just painting. SRAP offers a range of services, construction and repairs, carpentry, flooring, roofing, carpet installation, blinds, shutters, security doors and grills, window tinting and more. We also can do various plumbing (ie gutters, downpipes, install vanities). It is our solid belief, through our commitment that SRAP offers the highest service and is available 24/7 if required.
Absolutely, all work done is guaranteed under our customer guarantee.
All members of the SRAP team are licensed professionals with the Department of Fair-Trading NSW.
You can expect a high standard of professionalism and excellent workmanship.
Our standard working day is 6:30am – 4:30pm. Of course, some days we will work a little later, depending on weather, machines for access that may be onsite, or to complete a project on time.
Of course, we realise that these hours will not work for everyone. SRAP will work on weekends or night shift if that is what is required. Example, Schools are limited to weekends or school holiday period only, Commercial offices may need to be done ‘after hours’.
After the work has been agreed to, a timetable is set out so you know exactly when to expect the commencement of the work, the duration of the project and the estimated completion date.
Generally, no. Unlike other trades who can set up in a spot, finish and then move on, our workflow is different. We will be in and out of a room multiple times throughout the day and need the flexibility to adjust our workflow to respond to variables such as drying time, preparation times, weather and so on.
For tight timelines, planning becomes even more vital. We can increase our hours of operation and/or increase our workforce if we have clear information on timelines.
Yes we do! Please visit our photo gallery to see examples of our completed interior and exterior painting projects.
Maintaining an open line of communication with you is very important to SRAP. Your job foreman should be able to answer most questions but please feel free to contact your estimator or contact our office staff at any time to address concerns or answer any questions you may have whatsoever.
Please let our office know about it or feel free to contact your estimator directly. Most of the time it is more cost-effective for us to make a change or do additional during the course of the project than to have us come back after the project is complete.
The cost of a job is usually determined by the level of thoroughness, attention to detail, and quality desired. It costs more to properly prepare a surface for painting than to just pressure clean and scrape the surface. The majority of the cost of painting is in the surface preparation and the labour involved in the application of the paint and not the actual cost of the paint itself. As with most other industries, generally you get what you pay for.
The term surfactant leaching is used to describe spots or streaks of sticky brown or colourless material that appears on the surface of freshly applied latex (acrylic) paint. Surfactant leaching is a common paint problem that may occur with any brand of latex paint. The spots or streaks caused by surfactant leaching, while unsightly, are not harmful and do not affect the performance of the paint.
Surfactants are ingredients in paint that are critical to the performance properties of the paint such as its colour, stability, flow, and levelling. These materials usually evaporate in good drying conditions, or they are locked into the paint film. The staining occurs when drying conditions cause the paint to dry too slowly, allowing the surfactants to rise to the surface of the paint. The spotting and streaking occur when moisture condenses on the fresh paint and draws the surfactants rapidly out of the paint film. Heavy condensation will cause streaking from the run-down of surfactant-rich water.
Surfactant leaching usually occurs during the spring and autumn when the daytime temperatures drop below the dew point rapidly, or when temperatures are low and humidity remains high. In coastal areas, the marine layer can suddenly increase humidity and cause surfactant leaching any time of the year.
Surfactant streaking can be washed off, but one should be careful not to damage the fresh paint finish while doing so. If left alone, the streaking and discoloration will disappear after a first good rain.
Elastomeric coatings are above grade exterior wall or roof coatings that are up to 10 times thicker than paint. Elastomeric is normally used when the surface has a lot of hairline cracks. Elastomeric paint is formulated to be applied in very thick coats. When applied correctly, due to their high elasticity, they have a special capacity to span hairline cracks permanently. Instead of these cracks reopening, the Elastomeric would stretch and keep them sealed up. This then keeps water out and protects your home from damage. Elastomeric looks much like any other paint and it can be tinted to most colours.
Generally in addition to progress meetings, as we get nearer to the completion of the job, our supervisor will come and meet you to do an inspection prior to finishing, to make sure the project has been completed to your satisfaction.
A payment schedule is outlined in our contact. We will invoice you accordingly and will expect to be paid at that time.
Yes, SRAP is not just a Strata and Commercial painting company, we will paint the exterior and interior of your brand-new home, and existing home.
The following is based on a full interior residential repainting, including inside built in cupboards (if required). The short answer is that we need as much access as possible. About 1.5m clear around walls is the minimum to allow us to inspect the surface for repair, preparation and then to paint.
With the above in mind, it is most likely that some things will need to be moved. Paintings and wall art, fragile and valuable glassware, ornaments and other knick-knacks need to be taken out of display cabinets and stored safely. Clothing, shoes and other items stored in cupboards need to be removed and stored for access.
Our quotation does not have an allowance for moving furniture. However, some of our clients have moved everything that they can move but have a large piece of furniture that they cannot move by themselves. We will assess this on a case by case basis.
Moving furniture safely and without damaging floor covering, surrounding walls and other people can sometimes require specialist knowledge. Pianos, large display cabinets, pool tables, antiques are some examples of furniture that we may not be comfortable moving. If we do agree to help you move a large piece of furniture, although all care will be exercised, we do not accept any responsibility for any damage that may occur while moving that piece of furniture.
External furniture on balconies, we will usually cover and try to work around it if it cannot be moved.
Our SRAP team will be respectful of your possessions and will treat them with all care. We are realists though and understand that the chance of something being broken by accident is a possibility when working around such items. That is why we require that all fragile, valuable items are removed by you to somewhere safe and secure away from the work area if necessary.
No you shouldn’t need to be worried. We can provide you with a low VOC (“Volatile Organic Compounds”)/zero VOC, low odour option then you have nothing to worry about. Keep in mind Low VOC paints tend to be more expensive than regular paints.
All paints, varnishes, and solvents contain volatile organic compounds, or VOCs. Exposure to VOCs can trigger asthma attacks, respiratory problems, eye irritation, nausea, or dizziness. Because of these health concerns, a number of paint manufacturers have introduced Low or No VOC paint alternatives.
What is really important to us is how long you need it to take. If you have a deadline, please let us know during the initial consultation. This date will be included in your quotation and become part of our agreement.
Some important information we may require are in relation to non-painting works such as Carpet installation date, Electrical/air conditioning installation date, Tenant occupation date, Any other trade or business that may limit our access to the work site.
These factors will determine how many tradesmen we need on site to ensure that deadlines are met.
A common misconception is that “accidentally” touching the wall can be easily “touched up”. To repair an “accident” properly (so that it doesn’t look like a touch up) will usually require a full repaint of a wall, or a full coat to the door for example, and these may be extra costs that are not included in your initial quote.
We try to minimise waste by estimating paint quantities accurately. As it is an estimate, there is inevitably some excess paint. You will be provided with touch up paint that includes some of this left-over paint.
For all other excess paint, a new system has been set up with the support of all the major paint manufacturers in Australia. This system is called Paintback. (read more at www.paintback.com.au). The scheme aims to reduce landfill via the recycling of paint cans and packaging and also by separating the water from the solids in the paint itself.
We will leave your home / property in a clean and neat condition. There will be some rubbish, be it empty paint drums, protective plastic or paper and tape and other single use items. This rubbish is safe for disposal in your weekly rubbish collection bin.
When preparing the substrate, where possible, we use dustless power tools to minimize dust. However, this is not always the most practical or best option and so there will be dust created. We will gather and dispose of the dust and leave the work area clean and ready for you to use.
If the work requires the removal of lead, asbestos or other toxic chemicals (paint stripper for example), we will gather all the waste material, bag it, label it as required and dispose of it in accordance with local regulations.
We use the only professional premium quality paints from leading manufacturers such as Dulux, Wattyl, Taubmans, Berger, British Paints, Porters, unless the customer requests a different brand.
This will be specified in the quote and will be depending on scope and spec for the project.
Durability, Ease of application, Value for money, Quality of finish, Range/ variety.
One of our main goals is to complete your project with as little disruption to your life as possible. Before your project starts, we will provide you with a list of things that you can do to help us to complete your project as quickly and smoothly as possible.
There are many things to consider including: type and size of the painted area; type of windows and other trim work; number and intensity of paint colours; amount of protection needed for plants and furniture; quality of paint used; and the extent of needed paint surface preparation. All those things will need to be considered in order to provide you with an accurate cost estimate.
Sheen refers to the light reflectivity of the painted or varnished surface. There are varying degrees of sheen, from no sheen to high gloss. Though some paint manufacturers may refer to their paint sheens by different names, generally, from lowest to highest, paint sheens correspond to these reflective degrees:
Flat/Matt finish – Low light reflection, Hides surface imperfections, Flat used on ceilings. Also Good for walls in low traffic areas.
Eggshell finish- low lustre, soft sheen. Good for walls in high traffic areas.
Satin / low sheen finish- Forms a velvety finish that is hard wearing and easy to keep clean. Good for door, trim and walls.
Semi-gloss finish- Mid level sheen level, works well on doors, skirting boards, trim and cabinets.
High gloss finish -Very Shiny, Shows imperfections, Good for trim doors in high traffic areas. Durable and easy to clean.
They have better stain resistance, so they resist dirt pick up and stay cleaner longer. They have better scuff and wear resistance, so they’re good for high traffic areas and on surfaces that are handled, washed or scrubbed frequently. They have better moisture resistance, which makes them ideal for surfaces and areas that are frequently exposed to high humidity levels.
They tend to highlight any surface imperfections. They are harder to touch up than lower sheen paints, because the higher sheen tends to highlight the slightly raised surface of the film where the touch up was done. They usually need to be sanded, de-glossed or primed prior to repainting, to ensure good adhesion of the new paint.
Yes, it is ultimately the homeowner’s responsibility for any colour choices, and there is an additional cost for a colour change. The additional cost is determined by how much of the job is completed, along with the cost of the additional paint.
Yes. Most people we work for are not home while work is going on. While you are at work or running errands, our crew will be busy painting. We are licensed and fully insured so there is nothing to worry about.
We keep a close eye on the weather and weather forecasts. If it starts raining while we are in the middle of a painting job, we simply stop and return after it dries up.
Generally, an exterior painting job will need to be redone every 5-10 years. Masonry surfaces tend to last longer, wood on the other hand expands and contracts more with changing temperatures which loosens the paint sooner.
It is best not to put off your exterior painting until the house is badly peeling. When it gets to that condition, it will end up costing you more in preparation time and possibly dry rot repair work.
If, however the property is in a bad condition when you get to it, do yourself a favour – go the extra length and ensure that thorough surface preparation is done. The idea is to create a sound surface for the new coats to adhere to. This requires more time but is necessary for the paint job to last.
We’d love to hear from you. Feel free to contact us by email at [email protected].
SRAP can provide our clients with tailored Maintenance Programs. Our tailored strategies protect all structures, regardless of size and are designed to provide long-term savings by maximizing the life of existing surfaces. These programs will provide peace of mind, knowing that we will be on hand to manage any maintenance related emergency, regular incremental improvements and ongoing maintenance needs.
The most important part of a paint job is how you care for the paint coating after completion. The maintenance of the interior and exterior of the paintwork is essential to keeping your property looking like new for longer.
Leaving painting work for as long as possible may seem like a cheaper strategy. Nevertheless, it might end up costing more to repair a building's appearance when it starts to deteriorate, as it is likely to require extensive preparation and replacement of costly substrates before repainting.
Ongoing maintenance painting ensures a building always looks well-presented and modern, but it can also reduce future replacement costs. An example of this is maintaining the paint finish on windows as part of a long-term maintenance painting program. This extends the lifespan of the windows and eliminates the cost associated with ongoing replacement
Our simple tips will explain how to care for your paintwork and extend the life of your property. This will not only improve the ongoing appearance of your facility but will help to protect your investment and reduce future painting costs.
Here are some FAQs and our tips on maintaining and taking care of your paint job:
Yes. We specialise in washing commercial buildings. Our industrial equipment has the capability to reach high spots and hard to get to places. We are also trained and certified in the use of high reach equipment such as cherry pickers for buildings of a certain height – (up to 6 stories of accessible by machine).
Higher buildings (no height limit) are accessed by our rope access teams (Abseilers) .
No. We use a gentle soft washing process at low pressure. Water blasting your house or building at high pressure can not only cause serious damage to your paint and cladding but at high pressure the water can find its way into crack and cavities and get into your walls
Our cleaning products, when applied correctly, are not harmful to you, your pets or your plants. We take a strong stance on environmental safety and use bio degradable products and environmentally safe techniques.
Wash down the exterior buildings yearly. Increase cleaning frequency to 3-monthly in geothermal or severe marine areas. Where unpainted steel cladding is used, wash down areas not rain-washed at 6-monthly intervals.”
Maintenance cleaning is key to a painted surface's overall service life. Yet make sure to use a non-abrasive cleaner when choosing a cleaner. Mild, soapy water will generally suffice. However, always test the cleaning solution in an inconspicuous area to ensure that it does not damage the paint film.
Touching up an existing painted surface can be challenging - professional painters wrestle with this constantly. Ideally, use paint from the same can that was used originally, but reduce it about 10% to 15% with the reducer recommended on the can. If you are touching up walls on which the paint was applied with a roller, use a small trim roller. If the paint was brushed on, use a brush. Apply a small amount of the touch-up paint and "feather" the edges, starting at the outside edge of the touch-up area into the centre of the area. "Feathering" entails drawing the brush across the area outside of the touch-up onto the new paint to create a transition that diminishes the appearance of the touch-up. If the surface had to be patched, use a primer sealer. Try to prime and paint to a natural break. Please note: Though that sometimes repaired areas may be noticeable. In this event, painting the entire wall may be the best option.
No. Mildew can develop with limited air movement in any dark and moist area. Paints may be designed to prevent the growth of mildew, but mildew will inevitably reappear on any sort of paint under some conditions. A cleaning or maintenance schedule is the best protection in such environments.
There are various cleaners on the market that are specifically designed from the removal of Mildew. Many of these work quite well, however, a bleach and water solution will also work. Wash mildewed areas with a solution of one part household bleach and three parts water. This will destroy mildew and bleach stains caused by mildew growth. Apply solution by brush or a garden sprayer apparatus. Heavy mildew may require additional applications, and scrubbing may be required. Flush area with clean water (before the solution dries) to remove bleach solution. Please note: That these steps address the mildew problem only. Any other contaminants may require cleaning by other means.
In general, a detergent cleaner, or a diluted 30 Seconds cleaner (available at Bunnings) can be used. Be sure to wear all recommended safety equipment when working with these cleaners. Do not mix any other chemicals with these cleaners. Please note: That some of these products could affect the overall finish on the existing surface and should only be used if you are planning to repaint the surface.
This sounds like efflorescence. Efflorescence is often seen as a white, fluffy deposit of salt crystals on cementitious wall surfaces. It depends on the presence of salt and moisture. The growth of crystals will continue as long as both elements are present. The salts are present in the mortar blocks or concrete structure and the moisture is usually attributable to some building defect. When emanating from mortar in brick or block buildings, efflorescence will appear as narrow bands corresponding to mortar joints. Painting should be delayed if efflorescence continues. Salts should be removed by mechanical brushing. The use of water (at high pressure) to remove efflorescence is not recommended as it may exacerbate the problem. Repair areas where moisture penetrates the wall. Allow walls to dry thoroughly prior to priming.
To assure maximum wash ability and durability, wait at least two weeks before washing the dry paint film. Avoid any abrasive or harsh chemical cleaners as these could damage the paint film. Concentrated Cleaners (Liquid or Dry): Read all package directions before using. It is always recommended to test any cleaner on a small, inconspicuous area prior to use. Mix or dilute the cleaner per package instructions. Solution strength may be adjusted depending on amount and type of contaminant. Remove any heavy debris and contaminants. Using a sponge or cloth, wash surface dirt and marks. Do not allow the cleaner to dry on the surface. Always clean from the bottom of a wall to the top. Rinse the surface thoroughly.
It's time to select a cleaning agent after you clear your dirt and debris off the deck.
You can pick up suitable cleaning supplies from your nearby hardware store, or you can use your old laundry detergent and water to make your own.
You can either use a bristle brush and some elbow grease to do it the old-fashioned way or you can opt for a power washer. The bristle brush is obviously slightly more labour-intensive and time-consuming, but this method will usually result in a nicer finish. The power washer will mean you spend far less time cleaning, however if the setting is too high it can damage your deck.
The final step to cleaning your deck is to rinse it off. Any old garden hose will work for this part, but make sure you thoroughly rinse the suds away. Detergents may fade or discolour your deck when left for long periods of time, so it’s important to properly rinse your deck after cleaning.
Once your timber deck has been oiled, you should keep a regular schedule of oiling and sealing the deck every six to twelve months to ensure the longevity of the deck and keep it looking its best all year round.
It is then important to know how to remove dirt, grease and mould, without damaging the paint surface. The best process for cleaning surfaces will vary based on the sheen finish on the painted walls.
Cleaning interior surfaces coated in Low Sheen to Matt finishes
For wall coatings or ceiling coatings that are flat finishes do not use rough abrasives or solvent cleaners, stiff scrubbing brushes or harsh caustic preparations. Instead, use warm water with a small amount of mild detergent.
1. Apply the solution to the affected area with a soft cloth, where the marking is particularly stubborn.
2. Having thoroughly cleaned the affected area, you should then proceed to wash down the whole wall or ceiling to eliminate any chance of patchiness.
3. Finally, rinse off the washed area with clean water and allow to dry. Avoid vigorous scrubbing with chemicals or brushes and scourers to prevent burnishing the surfaces and causing shiny patches.
Cleaning interior surfaces coated in Semi-Gloss and Gloss finishes
1. Don’t use abrasives or caustic-based cleaning compounds.
2. Instead use warm water, with a little detergent added. You can use a damp cloth and cleaner such as Ajax Spray n' Wipe or Selleys Sugar Soap Wall Wipes for stubborn stains.
3. Apply to the affected area with a soft cloth and be sure to wash down the whole surface with clean water and allow to dry.
Cleaning exterior surfaces coated in Matt, Low Sheen, Semi Gloss and Gloss finishes
1. Prepare a bucket of warm water mixed with a moderate amount of household detergent.
2. Apply to the entire painted area with a soft bristle brush, broom or soft cloth, naturally you will need ladders, scaffolding and a long handled applicator to reach some of the higher parts of your home’s exterior, under eaves, along fascias, etc.
3. Before the wall or other painted surface has the opportunity to dry, you should hose it down thoroughly with clean water. Hosing down by itself, even with a very good water pressure, is not usually sufficient to remove the normal build-up of road grime, sap stains, dust and so on.
4. We recommend washing your walls every 1 to 2 years to maintain the life of the paint.
Please feel free to contact us by email at [email protected] to discuss a tailored maintenance program for your property.
If your anchors were installed by SRAP; we will re-certify them prior to the next SRAP use of the anchors as long as our 10-year warranty has not expired.
If another company needs to re-certify the anchors installed, there will be a small cost.
SRAP have stringent specifications that our qualified tradesmen follow for all installation purposes.
Our anchor points are fully waterproof and in the last 20 years of installing anchor points on roofs, we have no incidents of water leaks.
This is possible but adds extra costs. Anchor points can be removed, and a small capping will be replaced onto the anchor sleeve hole when not in use. If anchor points will be used again, the small capping can be removed, and the anchor point can be screwed back on.
Depending on the fall-arrest anchor, we will inspect and test if it will be suitable to use. Different types of anchor points will have different load capacities; SRAP will only install and use suitable anchor points for your building.
No, the installation will only take one to two days with minimal noise and mess. They are a hundred times quieter, easier, and safer to install compared to erecting scaffolding.
For safety reasons, anchor points have a 12-month expiry date. Anchor points can be left uncertified when not in use over 12 months.
If you have had anchors installed, prior to SRAP use, we will need to inspect anchors to see if they need to be re-certified.
The stainless-steel anchors that SRAP install have a life span exceeding 30 years
Other companies may also need to inspect and re-certify at a small cost.
Yes, any trades person or company can use and certify the anchor points installed as long as they are trained and qualified.
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